OK OK, Kratie is hardly on the tourist trail so those venturing to the eastern province are unlikely to come across too many foreign faces, even in the sleepy capital town of the same name.
Regardless, the tourists are lazily starting to trickle in and a smattering of guesthouses and accommodations are opening up to cater to the gradually swelling crowds.
To truly escape, sign up to stay at one of the many community homestays that litter the province. Locally-run Cambodian Rural Development Tours operates a series of homestays along the province, where guests can spend as many nights as they like living like a local at a series of rural villages along the Mekong River.
Options include Koh Pdao, a large river island about 40km north of Kratie where guests get the chance to take a boat out to view the endangered Irrawaddy dolphinsthat inhabit this stretch of the river, a trip to the nearby turtle conservation centre, cycling through the island and meeting village members.
Koh Preah village, about 35km from Stung Treng, offers the opportunity to cycle along the Mekong, sample traditional food, visit the local dolphin pool and chat with village elders.
Again, visitors need to remember this is going back to basics. Wi-Fi is a no-no, even phone signal is scarce for mobile data. Some of the homes have a generator for electricity but often they will not run through the night so keep electrical items charged.
Don’t forget to bring something to keep you warm at night as the temperature can drop, and something to keep you dry during rainy season.
The typical Cambodian way to wash is to scoop water from a giant ceramic pit using a bucket and pouring it over yourself. So, don’t expect a hot shower – in fact, a shower in any form should be considered a luxury.
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